The Ngorongoro highlands are ranges of volcanoes at the edge of the eastern branch of the great rift valley and are believed to have erupted 250 million years ago. Ngorongoro main crater is the most acclaimed features for being the world widest caldera measuring 21 km wide. The floor of the crater is mostly savannah grasslands and a home to a large concentrate of Africa most sought after wildlife. The other parts of the highlands form a scenic rainforest with exciting natural features. Even though you cannot explore the main crater on foot, much of the other regions of the highlands can be explored in a walking trail, taking you through several peaks and caldera. Importantly, the Ngorongoro highlands are surrounded by some of the most outstanding natural features that can be seen at a distance during your trek these include: Lake Eyasi in the south, Lake Manyara in the South East , and Ol donyo lengai and Lake Natron in the North. The highlands have 3 main hiking regions- the eastern highlands trail, Western and southern highlands.
Hiking in Ngorongoro eastern highlands
The eastern highlands have the most sought after trails with Empakaai and Ol moti being the most popular treks. Lake Natron and Ol donyo lengai are the most outstanding features you will view from a distance during your walk in eastern Ngorongoro region.
Empakaai trail
Empakaai crater is on the north eastern edge of the main crater. You can drive/ walk to the trailhead through a dusty eastern road leading to the base of the small hill. Here you will only hike for 5 kilometres to complete the trail to the crater and back. Though the hike is in a quite steep forested highlands, Empakaai hike can be classified as an easy hike. Unlike the main crater, empakaai crater is quite desolated and you are likely not to find other tourists during the hike. The crater is in a 300 m elevation and has a 6 km wide crater. The crater is steep walled plunging into an 85 metres deep depression whose floor is almost entirely covered by a soda lake. The walls of the crater are largely forested and are home to wildlife like buffaloes, bush bucks and waterbucks. You are likely to find a large concentrate of flamingos in the lake depending on the seasons.
Ol moti trail
Though the crater is not as famous as Empakaai, there is a whole new experience for trekkers in Ol Moti. The crater, believed to have erupted 10000 years ago, has since collapsed into a marshy plateau that is home to some of the wildlife living in the highland and a popular cattle grazing and drinking point for masai herds. Ol moti hill is situated along the eastern Ngorongoro road and you will drive to the base where the trail begins. The walk to the crater (2500 m a.s.l) will take a maximum 40 minutes, with the munge waterfalls being the most unique feature you will encounter along the way. This section of the forest is the best for tracking highlands adopted bird varieties, mostly raptors. The swampy crater is also home to some marsh birds, mostly heron varieties.
Loolmalasin trail
With an elevation of 3682 metres above sea level, loolmalasin on the eastern Ngorongoro highlands is the third highest peak in Tanzania after Kilimanjaro and Mt Meru. Few people go hiking in this mountain making it the best option for hikers, seeking an off the beaten path experience in Tanzania. Hikers taking the trail drive to Bulati village where the trail starts at an altitude of 2599 m a.s.l. From here you will then trek through a 9 km long trail to the summit. Since there are only a few hikers trekking this mountain, the guide will assist in route finding where there are overgrown. However, most part of the trail is paved and route finding is always easy. Unlike the Mt Lemargut, Ol Moti and Empakaai trails, where you will be accompanied by an armed ranger, you only need your guide for the Loolmalasin trail as the area doesn’t have predatory wildlife. However, you will occasionally encounter zebras, wildeest and thompsons giraffes. As you approach the peak you will come across alluring flowery moorland section with rocky outcrops. The unfolding view of the entire highland Is also quite exciting. The peak is also a great viewpoint for features like Kilimanjaro and ol doinyo lengai at a distance.
Hiking in the western highlands
Straddling the Ngorongoro main crater and the Serengeti plains, the western trails are mainly preferred for the great view of the African savannah on the East. Mt Lemargut is the most preferred viewpoint.
Mt Lemargut trail
Soaring at 3122 m a.s.l Lemargut is one of the 9 peaks in the Ngorongoro highlands. The Lermargut trail is the most preferred mountain trail in the highlands, mainly for its perfect view of the surrounding sceneries. It takes about an hour walking from the main crater to the trailhead on the western highland. The walk will expose some of the most exciting landscape in the highlands as well as varieties of flora and fauna. The ascent and descent from the peak will take approximately 4 hrs. The mountain has quite gentle inclination and is an easy trek for hikers of all levels of experience. Since this side of the mountain is a dwelling for the big cats, an armed ranger will escort you besides the guide. Other wildlife that are common in this area include elands and buffaloes. The peak overlooks the Olblabal depression, which is a picturesque sunken region. At the mountain peak, you will enjoy an unbroken view of the Serengeti plains on the West and Lake Eyasi at a distance in the South.
Hiking in the southern highlands
Most people who go for the southern highlands trail are accommodated in the Karatu town. The settlement in southern Ngorongoro boasts a wide selection of lodging facilities coming at a wider price range. The crater walk is the most sought after trekking tour in the region.
Southern crater rim trek
Southern Ngorongoro highlands offer trekkers the best opportunity to encounter with the locals Africans. The trail begins on the Karatu region from where you ascend to the crater rim( 2030 m a.s.l). This trail features some of the most incredible scenes for montane forest adopted birds like European roller, cinnamon-chested bee eater and Olive sunbird. Giraffe and elephants are also quite common in the region. Lake Eyasi is the most outstanding natural formation you will sight during the trail.
When is the best time to go hiking in the Ngorongoro highlands?
Ngorongoro highlands is an all year round destination. Most of the roads leading to the roads are paved Masai roads that can be trekked even during the rainy seasons. However, hiking during the rainy seasons could be quite hard as the trails may be slippery, making it difficult to climb uphills. This makes the dry season between December to March and June to October are the best period to take a hiking trail in the highlands.
